JÜRGEN HAIBLE FREQUENCY SHIFTER FS-1A
DOCUMENTATION REGARDING BUILDING OF FRONTPANEL.  
EVERYTHING IS KINDA HIGH UP IN THE PRICE RANGE. I THINK THAT IF YOU BUILD A FREQUENCY SHIFTER, WHICH YOU MIGHT ONLY BUILD ONE OF. THEN WHY NOT DO IT PROPPERLY? SINCE I LIVE IN SWEDEN SOME PARTS NUMBERS MIGHT BE FROM ELFA, WHICH IS A SWEDISH COMPANY. THEY MIGHT SHIP INTERNATIONALLY. BUT I BET IT'S EXPENSIVE. AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND THE SAME PARTS AT MOUSER OR DIGIKEY.

POTS, BOURNS 51&53, MOUSER 652-53AAA-B28-B20L AND 652-51AAD-B28-D15L. I COULD NOT FIND ANY REVERSE LOG 5K POTS. SO I WENT WITH 10K LOG. THIS MIGHT MESS UP THE GAIN KNOB SOME. BUT IT'S OK ANYWAY.

WELL! THAT DIDN'T WORK. THE SHAFTS OF THE BOURNS ARE TOO SHORT. SO I ENDED UP USING THESE INSTEAD - PIHER PC-16SH10IP06104A

SWITCHES, NKK M202203, MOUSER 633-M202203. VERY NICE SWITCHES. I'VE USED THEM BEFORE WHEN BUILDING THE CGS/SERGE PANELS.

JACKS, JOHNSON, DIGIKEY J152-ND,J155-ND AND J358-ND. SEEMS TO BE THE STANDARD WHEN BUILDING STUFF LIKE THIS. BLACK FOR THE CV INPUTS, VIOLET AND BLUE FOR THE CV OUTPUTS. I THINK MARK VERBOS PUT A GREY JACK FOR THE KEYBOARD INPUT ON HIS 258V? IF YOU LIKE "COLOR" IT MIGHT BE A NICE TOUCH.

LEDS, JUST USE NORMAL 3MM RED LEDS.

JACKS, SWITCHCRAFT 142AX, MOUSER 502-142AX. SEEMS TO BE THE STANDRAD JACKS FOR BUCHLA?

XLR/6.35MM JACKS, NEUTRIK NCJ10FI-S, ELFA 42-204-86, JACK THAT ACCEPTS BOTH XLR AND TELE. SMOOTH SOLUTION!

SCREWS, PHILIPS M2.5 DIN 963, ELFA 48-317-23.

THE STAND OFFS SHOULD BE 15MM TALL.

THAT SHOULD BE ALL THE COMPONENTS YOU NEED FOR THE FRONT PANEL. AND AS YOU'VE PROBABLY NOTICED. IT SHOULD ALL (WELL ALMOST) BE MOUNTED ON THE PCB WHICH CAME WITH YOUR PANEL.

 
IF YOU WANTED TO, THE PCB CAME PRE SOLDERED WITH THE SMD PARTS. BUT YOU STILL NEED TO PUT IN THE THROUGH HOLE COMPONENTS. RESISTORS AND LEDS.

PLEASE SEE THIS PDF FOR THE SILKSCREEN.

PLEASE NOTE THE ERRORS!!

THE SMD SECTION IS JUST A TL074 WHICH WORKS LIKE A BUFFER. NOTHING COMPLICATED. YOU NEED TO ATTACH THE CENTER PIN OF THE 3 PINS NEAR "CARRIER NULL". THE PINS NEAREST LINFMPOT SHOULD BE THE 90 DEGREES OUTPUT, AND THE 0 DEEGREES CAN BE FOUND AT THE OSC_LEVEL_BAL. (50% CHANCE THAT I'M GETTING THIS RIGHT).

AS YOU PROBABLY CAN SEE, THERE ARE EXTRA HOLES ON THE PCB. THESE ARE FOR THE CABLES. WHICH YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO ATTACH ON THE INSIDE.

THERE IS ALSO SOME AIR WIRES WHICH NEEDS TO BE CONNECTED TO THE SWITCHES.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE DEEP PHASE SWITCH HAS TO BE ATTACHED DIRECLY TO THE FRONT PANEL.

WHEN MOUNTING THE LEDS. ATTATCH THE PCB TO THE FRONT PANEL AND THEN SOLDER THE LEDS IN POSITION. THIS SHOULD BE DONE AT THE END OF THE PROCESS. SINCE FLIPPING THE BOARD AROUND, WHICH YOU'LL PROBABLY DO WHEN ATTACHING CABLES AND EVERYTHING. MIGHT BEND THE LEADS AND THEN IT'LL BE MESSY GETTING IT ALL TOGETHER. SO FIRST SOLDER ONE PIN OF THE LED, AND HEAT/RE-HEAT TO ADJUST THE LENGTH. SHOULD BE FAIRLY SIMPLE TO GET THEM ALL LINED UP.

HAPPY BUILDING.

JON